Photo: Travel: Italy: Venice: Churches: San Sebastiano

San Sebastiano, Dorsoduro, Venice

Thus stunning single-hall church was the parish church of Paolo Veronese. It was redesigned by Scarpagnino in the early 16th century and the plain Renaissance exterior belies the rich interior dominated by paintings by Veronese. The painter is responsible for most of the decorations, from the monumental paintings in the chancel, to the rich panels on the nave ceiling, the paintings on the walls and in the spandrels, and the superb ceiling in the sacristy. The effect can be a little overwhelming. Three of Veronese's best-known works, 'The Triumph of Mordechai', 'The Repudiation of Vashti' and 'Esther Crowned by Ahasuerus' grace the nave ceiling. If you are lucky, you may see both the 'Presentation at the Temple' (if the organ doors are closed) and 'The Pool of Bethesda' (if they are open). The chancel boasts the awesome paintings of the martyrdom of St Sebastian, the leading of Saints Mark and Marcellinus to their martyrdoms, and St Sebastian among other saints with the Virgin in glory. The sacristy is unmissable (ask the attendant to open it if it's closed). Veronese's work is on the ceiling but the wall paintings depicting scenes from the Old and New Testaments are also very well done even if they are by others. It goes without saying that Veronese grabs most of one's attention. However, I was quite partial to a 17th century statue of St Anne by Pietro Baratta (in the third south chapel) which looks hauntingly beautiful in monochrome.

There is a modest entry fee and for €6 one can get a glossy book 'Veronese in the Church of San Sebastiano' with excellent photographs. It is published by Marsilio, which also happens to publish ''Churches of Venice', a somewhat larger book covering in less detail 15 of the best churches. Photography inside is not permitted.

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