Photo: Travel: United Kingdom: Lichfield
The Cathedral Church of St Mary and St Chad, Lichfield, Staffordshire
This trip almost did not happen when Tini suddenly got sick at the sight of the cathedral. I don't think she was reacting to the particularly hideous Victorian restoration work, though. I, for one, found this cathedral quite pretty. Its three spires (unique in England) soar over the close, the building is relatively small, giving it a human-scale charm, and the west front, much maligned for the indifferent Victorian statuary that replaced the originals damaged during the Civil War, is still a sight to behold, especially in the warm light of a sunset.The cathedral itself is almost entirely of Victorian manufacture on account of being severely mauled during the Civil War. Very little original fabric remains but there are some things worth seeing. The nave, with its narrow arcading and unusual curved triangular clerestory is finely proportioned. Surprisingly, the Quire is not only unimpressive, the iron screen is actively off-putting (no matter what Pevsner says about it), and the high altar is extremely gaudy with really forgettable reredos with statues of saints carrying their instruments of martyrdom. The elongated octogonal chapter house is more interesting, with its charming vestibule and a carving for a cat eating a mouse. There "Lichfield Angel" (Anglo-Saxon relief found in 2003) is now exhibited there as well. The Chapel of St Chad on the 2nd floor of the south quire aisle would have been more interesting if one could actually see the skull of the saint. The aisles are all extensively decorated with blind wall arcading with head corbells and mythical creatures in the cusps of the trefoils. There are some pretty decent windows by Kempe but the highlight are the Flemish stained-glass windows in the lights of the Lady Chapel. These were imported from the Heckenrode Abbey and are quite pretty even if they are in various states of disrepair and some seem to exhibit vulgar recent modifications.
This cathedral is altogether lovely and the pitiful Pitkin Guide is worse than inadequate to cover its many fascinating details.
