Photo: Travel: Bulgaria: Sofia: Churches: Alexander Nevsky

St Alexander Nevsky Cathedral, Sofia, Bulgaria

Built in the early 20th century, this cathedral is dedicated to the Russian Tsar that defeated the Teutons at Lake Ladoga. It is among the most recognizable landmarks in Sofia and sits on top of the highest hill. Designed by Russians, it is unimstakably Byzantine in style. The interior is painted throughout but in sad state of disrepair. It is a vast structure and the emptiness inside only emphasizes the spaciousness. Unfortunately, the Bulgarians have let murals deteriorate to a point where it looks like they were done centuries ago. Still, definitely worth a visit.

Entrance is free, and there are acceptable photobooks at the kiosk where you can also buy candles if this is your sort of thing. Tourists mill around and mingle with people quietly praying. Photography is strictly prohibited, and is enforced by really unpleasant wardens who will not only shout at offenders (yes, and I mean shout) but would also rush them in a clear physical threat. It did not happen to me, but I saw it, and was embarrassed to be Bulgarian. Whatever spiritual damage a tourist can cause by snapping a photo cannot compare with the comotion the wardens cause. I really cannot understand why they are so strict about it. Thus far, Bulgaria has proven to have the most bans on photography in churches (nearly all of them!), and they are not kidding about it.

I am opposed to these bans on principle, and I always photograph what I can. As far as I am concerned, these buildings are our common cultural heritage, and not the property of some overzealous religious types. I am sure the Holy Spirit would not mind if I snapped a photo of an icon or two either, and I think that taking pictures when there are no services in progress should be permitted. Heck, I would gladly pay for a photo permit in the hope that they could use the money to restore the church. Because I had to engage in clandestine guerilla photography, the interior pictures here are pretty bad, for which I apologize. I only got yelled at twice.

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